2 Comments
User's avatar
Yucheng Tang's avatar

Reading this story feels a bit like reading Peter Hessler’s Country Driving, but with a focus on food, haha. The comparison between China’s tradition of closely linking food to place and the American experience is fascinating, and it has a lovely sense of humor as well.

The piece also left me wondering: I’m sure these foods owe a great deal to the local shuitu (水土), but how much also comes down to economies of scale, historical traditions, or a little business opportunity that arose by chance? As the author points out, the introduction of nonnative varieties and the interaction between people and nature also play a role. Of course, Yang captures this complexity, too.

I really enjoyed this piece.

Xiong Yang's avatar

one can only aspire to peter hessler's mastery haha. and i completely agree - it’s always a messy interplay of actual soil/climate conditions, social/cultural/physical infrastructure, and commercial bets that may or may not pay off. glad that some of that complexity is coming through!